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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. But, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.